Delta 3D Studios

I have heard that once you start vaping a bowl in a vape, you have to finish it in one siting or rest of the bowl will be wasted/taste horrible. Is this true?

So the answer is “kinda”.

As mentioned, different temperatures extract different active compounds from the herb. It also cooks different flavor terpenes which affect how the vapor tastes.

When you load and electronic vaporizer, run a partial session, turn it off and then restart at the same temperature, you will find vapor production seriously diminished, and vapor taste changes to more of a “burnt popcorn” flavor.

You have several options in this regard:

• Temperature-step. Some people enjoy a low temp session in the mornings, and then cooking the same load in the evenings for sedation. This works because you’re cooking a new set of compounds. The vapor flavor and production still changes, but it’s not quite as bad.

• Microdose. There are different methods of microdosing with every vaporizer but basically you are cooking only as much as you need for that session and then reloading each time you use the device. This is great if you’re a flavor chasing snob like myself lol.

Now there are always exceptions to the rule - butane powered vaporizers don’t exactly play by the same set of rules. If you load up a Dynavap Vapcap take a puff and then let it cool down, you won’t notice a huge change in performance later when you re-heat the device. But that’s also because it’s not a flavor-chasing vaporizer, and instead it roasts the herb during the heatup phase which slightly alters the taste anyway - and the heat penetrates to the core of the load much quicker with a butane torch

Personally I stick to the plain old devil’s lettuce. Vaporizing pipe tobacco can be enjoyable if it’s flavored, but yeah I don’t bother trying many other herbs lol.

The fun part is the leftovers - unlike smoking you can re-use your leftovers from the dry vaporizer (I call it ABV - Already Been Vaped, others call it AVB - already vaped bud). It’s already cooked so you can eat it straight (some people add it to yogurt, others mix it into smoothies or chocolate milk, some make “firecrackers” with crackers and peanutbutter/jelly for example) - the results tend to be more sedative than usual.

I personally have used a sous-vide to make budder using cooked herb which set up in silicone molds. I then make rice krispy treats using the budder.

Lol, I often ask Chat to describe things to me like a stoned surfer bro, it’s hilarious

Oooo you’d be the perfect candidate to try dry herbal vaporizing. 95% of the time those negative complaints you see are from hard core daily smokers who expect the exact same results… unaware of the fact that dry vaporizing does not yield the exact same results because it is a cleaner way to extract the actual active compounds.

The problem is most stoners confuse the affects of the herb itself… with that of combustion and inhaling carbon monoxide and carcinogenics. For people in that situation, I actually advise a one or two week “t-break” to let the body fully detox so they can fully enjoy the dry herbal vaporizing.

Prefilled concentrate “vapes” are a completely different ballgame. I equate those to eating junk food - because they taste great and produce awesome clouds… but they are never “full spectrum” - the extraction process to produce the concentrate doesn’t extract “everything”, and temperatures used in some extraction processes can actually cook off some of the lower temperature affects. This is why I personally prefer dry vaporizing. I made the switch 11 years ago and haven’t looked back - the only time I combust is socially with friends when they’re passing around something smokeable - but even then it’s a rare occasion (I just hate the taste/smell/effects when combusting).

Not all dry vaporizers are crated equal. Back about ten years ago, there were many cheap no-name vaporizers which were terrible some vaporized extremely slowly (a session could take 20+ minutes for a full complete extraction) - there were even some like the “Atmos Raw” which was claimed to be a dry herbal vaporizer - in reality it was an ecig vaporizer and it had an attachment which would physically burn the herb until it combusted - it was not an actual “Vaporizer”. But I know many people who paid $50+ for the Atmos Raw because it was the cheapest “vaporizer” they could find (and there were groupon deals and such offering them for $25, it was sad)

If you’re “vaporizer curious” I would start with something like the Xmax V3 Pro or PlanetOfTheVapes One vaporizer - both are great entry level devices which perform well for the price (they are not the best in the industry, but certainly good beginner vaporizers).

Alternatively, there is another brand of Vaporizers made in America called the “Dynavap Vapcap” - which is pretty much unlike any other dry vaporizer on the market - it mimics more of a single-hitter from the combustion side of cannabis in the way it looks. It’s not a “traditional” vaporizer in any sense of the word - but there is a reason why it has developed a cult-like following since it’s release eight or nine years ago.

I know lots of others answered but I’ll try to sum up some notes for you:

• Combustion releases a ton of extra stuff including a toxic cocktail of carcinogenics and carbon monoxide which are bad for your body. Some of these chemicals release the instant euphoric feeling followed by sedation. People who try dry vaporizing are expecting the same exact effects, when the reality is that it is cleaner and different.

• Different temperatures extract different active compounds from the herb. In general terms a Sativa vapes great at lower temps (300-385F) while Indica and CBD strains work better at higher temps to extract that sedation and pan relief you get from the herb. This means you can essentially “customize” your high to what you want/need at that time. If you have a hybrid for example you could cook out the low temperature sativa side in the morning, then cook the same herb at night to extract the indica side of the herb.

• Not all dry vaporizers cook at the same rate. They are essentially miniature ovens. Many people buy cheaper weaker underpowered devices preheat them and suck away like they’re hitting a waterpipe - this drains all heat out of the oven faster than the shitty heater can recover temps. The secret here is to either get a higher powered device, OR learn how to slow your roll and take a gentle sip (filling your lungs over 20 seconds instead of filling them in 3 seconds). This is partially why you hear people say vaporizers suck - because they are not obtaining a full extraction before they think it’s finished (since they’re getting no more vapor it must be fully cooked!).

• Unlike smoking where you can “Green out” from smoking too much (due to excessive carbon monoxide poisoning which causes you to start vomiting if you smoke too much too frequently), dry vaporizing does not do this. You can essentially get MORE medicated than possible with combustion because you’re not inhaling all that nasty toxic shit.

Dry vaporizers come in many shapes and sizes. Some cook faster, some produce tastier vapor for flavor-chasing snobs like myself, some produce bigger clouds, others better for social gatherings, or more stealthy, faster extraction, etc. Most of us true ents have multiple devices in our collection depending on our needs at the time.

LPT - you can pair almost any vaporizer with a waterpipe for some epic vaporbonging action. Price does not equate to performance, there are many other vaporizers besides “ball vapes” that can totally get you where you need to be. Hell on vacation when my preferred portable failed (bad battery), I bought a shitty no-name $85 vaporizer at a smoke shop and was able to make it work for my needs until I got back home lol.

If you let me know more about your budget and what you want to do I can probably set you on a better path than a ball vape - I’m personally not a fan of them for novice users for several reasons.

Sniff the comments in this thread make me so happy. I gave up combustion over a decade ago and my body has been happier for it.

These days I only combust socially when joining old friends who don’t dry vape.

Coming from dry herbal vaporizing, no. I have found some concentrates are more “Full spectrum” than other concentrates.

A lot of it comes down to how it’s extracted from the plant. Temperature and pressure can alter what gets extracted into the concentrate.

Personally I equate most concentrates to junk food - yes they taste great, but they don’t give you the full nutritional content of a healthy salad.

Same with dry herbal vaporizing - it lets you extract everything you want from the plant, directly. Yes it’s not as concentrated and for a dabber they probably won’t get much enjoyment from dry vaporizing since it’s a slower extraction. But after having “dabbled” with a bunch of different concentrates myself over the years, I’m perfectly content with dry herbal vaporizing.

Just my $0.02

Lol this industry has done plenty for me over the years. I’m always happy to jump in and drop some knowledge for my fellow ents (I won’t spam the site with a link but if you haven’t, be sure to check out my site, I make a bunch of cool shit for vaporizers 😉 )

I was wondering some things: What is a good temp range with these? I have been using the method you suggested for my max pro of starting at 300, letting it preheat a bit, taking a few good hits and bumping the temp +20f every few minutes until 385f daytime or 430f evening.

That’s the fun part - self discovery. Not all of us prefer the same temps. Sometimes it depends on the mood, or the strain, or the time of day, etc.

You sound like you’re on the right track. The best way to do it is continue temperature-stepping. Start at that 300F. But work your way up 10F or 15F at a time from 300F. Maybe you find yourself RIGHT where you want to be at 350F… maybe it’s 380F. Maybe it’s 430F.

500F is used for concentrates. Depending on the device, temperatures can fluctuate by as much as 1-10F hotter than set temp (depends a lot on the design of the device, programming software, etc. So combustion can occur anywhere between a set temp of 435F and 450F. In general I prefer staying below 430F. If your ABV looks black, that’s beyond cooked for me haha. I still like it to be a shade of coffee brown when I’m done cooking… in most cases.

There are times when I’m a dumb@ss and fall off a bicycle or something and injure myself bad. Then I’ll enjoy some higher temp sessions closer to 430F. But I personally usually stay below 400F most days.

With this desktop I’m not really getting any vapor until I hit around 400f and the device can go up to 500f. Do you have any suggestions for the temps I should be using/avoiding?

What desktop? Arizer ExtremeQ/XQ2? It sounds like you’re not preheating adequately and the oven is sucking heat away from the oven. This is a very common situation. The glass hardware acts as a heatsink. With most desktop plug-in devices, it’s best to set temp and let it sit for 20+ minutes before loading. This lets the device run more efficiently at temp.

The preheat thing for desktop is my biggest issue right now. Even just loading the herb and waiting for it to vaporize can take 3-5 minutes, which is a big difference from the comparatively instant smoke im use to with air max and plain old combustion. Plus preferably a 30 min preheat for best heat extraction? I will have to learn to have a little patience. Maybe get my first wake and bake done with air max while its preheating

Yes indeed this can be an adjustment.

There are “hacks” for many portables to avoid this preheat.

With my tin “log” vaporizer (Epic E-Nano Vaporizer - about the size of a small redbull can) - the wood housing was part of the secret sauce to the device. Even at max temp the device would suck for the first 10 minutes. But once the device got going, it was unstoppable. Since it was literally a 120v ceramic heater wired to a PWM dimmer switch consuming about 10 watts of electricity (at my favorite temp), I simply kept it running 24/7! So I always had heat on tap ready to vaporbong a load of any size I wanted (from full oven to microdose). It was literally too convenient so after running for 10 years I powered it offline and tucked it away for safe keeping.

At one point I even got fancy and used a smart outlet, programmed on a schedule to turn on the device in the morning before waking up, off while at work, then on to preheat before I arrived home from work hahaha.

Should I have whip inserted while its preheating?

For sure heat rises. Inserting the whip attachment would trap some more of the heat radiating up from the heater decreasing preheat times

What is minimum time for preheat in your opinion?

So this depends on many factors. With the OEM bowl, probably 10 minutes. You could accelerate the process by cranking up to 450F for the first 5 minutes, then turning down for the next 5 minutes (or less) before starting your sesh.

Some people get a different oven modded with the screen placed lower closer to the heater so they can rip away without preheating. That depends on you - I prefer the OEM bowls.

On the topic of packing the whip insert part, I think that’s dumb from an air flow standpoint. I noticed the herb that gets stuck in there stays green which indicates its not being heated as well as rest of bowl. I actually take a little puff into the mouthpiece to dislodge the stuck herb back into bowl.

For sure, I agree with you. I’m a bigger fan of preheating my desktops before use. I’ve simply gotten in the habit of turning on my Arizer XQ2 if I think I’m going to use it in the next hour. I have the auto-off timer set to shut off after 60 minutes of inactivity so it doesn’t stay running unattended.

Finally,would it be okay to email you? Not sure how Lemmy PMS work.

Totally! Feel free to fill out the contact form on my website and I’ll reply back from there :-)

Vapcap for the win. I’m about to enjoy my 2020 Vapcap-M which was personally gifted to me by George (founder and inventor of the Vapcap) - we go way back (both of us were founding our businesses in the same year and experienced challenges dealing with financial BS like Paypal suspending our accounts).

Woot! That’s awesome, the Arizer extremeQ is one hell of a nice vaporizer. I actually use mine for conducting testing on strains - I preheat the vaporizer at a desired temperature for 20 minutes, the load a measured dose, and then slowly fill a balloon with vapor. Then I hold the vapor up to a light source and observe the opacity of the vapor. The more milky white, the higher the quality of herb at that temperature (so if I’m testing low temps, and try cooking a top-shelf indica, of course it won’t produce much vapor at very low temps compared to high temps, but a high grade sativa would).

This lets me determine the quality of the herb, as well as what type of strain it is (if it’s a hybrid, I can determine if it’s sativa-leaning or indica-leaning based on vapor production.

Few pro tips from a seasoned EQ expert:

• PREHEAT!!! Some people buy mods to get the herb closer to the heater port. But instead the real secret is to just turn on your device for 30 minutes before loading and using it. This will let the glass oven fully “heat-soak” before use. This yields more optimal efficient extraction

• Try the nugget method - instead of grinding, break off a tiny nugget and toss it in the oven. Take a few puffs, then stir to break up the nugget and “Refresh” the flavor - this lets you flavor-chase throughout the whole session.

• Try the elbow-pack method. Some people like to stuff the tiny “elbow” screen (the one that holds back the herb) full with herb - this seems to yield a good extraction. But I’m not too impressed, although some people swear by it lol.

• Filling balloons with vapor? Check out the Camelbak Silicone “Bite-Valves” - the cheap silicone ones slide right over the mouthpiece of the balloons and traps the vapor - to get vapor you simply “bite” on the mouthpiece to open so you can suck out the vapor.

Keep in mind that 100% complete extraction (at one set temperature) results in 100% uniform color across every flake of herb in the oven. (the specific shade of brown varies depending on temp used) - just know that is what to look for. Not everyone wants to achieve 100% complete extraction (others dump/refill when they’ve extracted about 70-75% ish of the herb), but that’s a key to remember.

Let me know if you need any more help with that device!

Look into dry herbal vaporizing instead of using concentrates for more consistent results. Different temperatures cook out different active compounds from the flower.

This lets you select your favorite temperatures depending on time of day or mood/strain. For example if you only have indica-leaning hybrids but want the uplifting euphoric affects of sativa, you can vape the hybrid at lower temps to extract the sativa side. You won’t get as much vapor but it will only release that side of the herb.

If you desire sleep, I’d be focused on higher temp vaporizing with a CBD or indica dominate strain.

So I bought the original Arizer ExtremeQ specifically for my jacuzzi and pool time needs - where I don’t want to bring an electronic or butane powered device, but I want to bring some vapor with me to have fun. The fan assist to fill balloons was what I needed at a cost effective price (the volcano was too expensive for my needs)

The ExtremeQ absolutely exceeded my expectations. It lasted me for several years until the temperature sensor failed (likely because I would try and “cheat” the vaping extraction process by rocking/shaking my vape while filling a balloon for more optimal extraction hahaha). I have no doubt I could find a replacement temp sensor and fix the vaporizer myself, but I never got around to it.

Instead I opted to buy the new XQ2 from Arizer a few months after it hit the market.

Note, there is the cheap Arizer desktop - the “V-Tower” which is essentially the EQ without the fan blower to fill balloons - it’s a whip or direct-draw vaporizer only.

Trust me when I say you want that fan-assist, it makes the device more versatile.

Here’s the main differences between the original Arizer ExtremeQ and the new XQ2:

• Redesigned exterior to look sexier than the original
• More LED lights and colors. The XQ2 has a multi-color base-ring (ExtremeQ only has a solid blue LED light ring) - this also acts as a status light (Changes color based on heatup or ready to use). They also added LED light to the heater core to make it glow, but it’s not that bright. Overall it looks cooler, but nothing really game-changing.
• The XQ2 has a new “filter” compartment on the air-intake at the bottom of the vaporizer. This is a very simple sponge filter and nothing super fancy. You could likely 3D print or rig up your own air filter by taping one to the bottom of the ExtremeQ if really wanted

That’s it - the XQ2 is really a fancier version of the ExtremeQ with very minor tweaks, nothing that really changes the performance.

If you’re on a budget, my advice would be to look for an ExtremeQ, and if there is none available, then splurge on the XQ2.

Another fun thing I like to do with desktops like these is called the “nugget method” - break off a mini nugget and throw it in the oven. No grinding or anything. Savor the flavor at this temp for a bit, then stir to break up the nugget and refresh the flavor. This lets you “flavor chase” throughout the sesh by refreshing the flavor every time you stir/break up the herb.

I should have, but this was also shortly after recreational was made legal in Vegas. I haven’t returned to confirm it wasn’t just a fluke.

But I totally agree

Interesting! But it doesn’t surprise me

This is the same case for some herb as well, you just get flower and it vapes for all of 3 minutes before it stops producing vapor. Tasty enough for the beginning but it just speeds by.

Yep, this is where I get all sciency and use my Arizer XQ2 to measure the quality of new strains (as well as determine if they are indeed a sativa leaning or indica leaning hybrid based on the temps and vapor production). Basically I’ll preheat the device at a desired temp for 20+ minutes, load the device with a measured dose of herb using my Mighty Scoop-n-tamp and then set fan speed to low and slowly fill a balloon. I then hold the herb up to the light and view the opacity of the vapor cloud in the bag.

The more opaque, the higher the concentration of active compounds at that temp and thus the higher quality of the herb.

Low grade strains might produce minimal vapor or a mildly opaque balloon, while some top tier strains will fill the bag completely opaque with milky vapor on a single scoop of herb.

Like I said, I also test at different temps with fresh loads of herb to test the strain and see how much vapor it produces at lower temps verses higher temps (if it’s there’s minimal vapor at lower temps but significantly more at higher temps, than it’s likely an indica or cbd leaning strain)

So when dry vaporizing we are basically doing the same thing… except much hotter - we’re talking closer to 150c and hotter to release the vapor from the herb.

In fact, we use different temperatures (between 150c and 220C) to release different medical benefits from the flower (low temps around 150C for more uplifting cerebral effects, and high temps over 200C for more pain relief and sedation).

Recently picked up a 1g preroll of cannabis from the dispensary and left it in my car for a week (ambient temps around 41°). When I went to smoke it, it smelled the same and looked the same (was in a sealed plastic container) but it had no effect whatsoever. Does THC degrade at high ambient temps?

Yes something will start to degrade at 40c, but what you experienced is not that…

Fun story for you:

I had a similar experience in Las Vegas. While attending a CHAMPS trade show (420 industry b2b event) in Las Vegas, the different recreational dispensaries were giving away free pre-rolls and large discounts to any customer who had a CHAMPS badge from the show. Since I don’t combust (dry vaporizing only), I took the free pre-roll from one dispensary and emptied the shake. Then I cooked it in my dry herbal vaporizer.

Except I got literally zero vapor!!! I honestly thought my vaporizer was broken. Until I reloaded the device with some fresh top-shelf flower and boom, I got a ton of vapor. As it turns out, the dispensary I visited was extracting all concentrate from the herb to sell wax concentrate to customers. The leftover shake from that process was put into pre-rolls and sold as cheap 1g smokes despite the fact that they contained essentially zero active compounds.

To the average smoker, its cheap and it produces smoke (plus the combustion creates a toxic cocktail of carcinogenics and carbon monoxide can yield temporary euphoric and sedative affects which fools many ents). But with my dry herbal vaporizer I immediately noticed the problem.

So to answer your question, no I highly doubt that leaving a pre-roll in a car at 40c would cook off ALL active compounds. Maybe some low-temp terps, but not everything.

Does that dispensary also sell concentrates? It’s very likely they are trying to double-dip by selling both the concentrates and the trash shake as pre-rolls so they can increase profits. And I’m sure the local government doesn’t care that they’re misleading customers - because they’re still earning tax revenue and all that jazz.

If you don’t believe me, it would be really easy to test with a dry herbal vaporizer - put some of that pre-roll into a dry vaporizer set to 200C and start cooking - do you see much vapor production? Or does the device produce practically zero vapor? That’d be because there are no active compounds left to extract at those temps.

Just my $0.02

Hahah yeah I gifted my friend a neon green Vapcap-B I got from Dynavap at another trade show - he loves it. My other friend bought a B, and now his friends are buying them. I’ve heard from Stickstones (big name in this industry) that he preferred the B to the M as well.

Thanks for stopping by! Thankfully my position in the industry has given me access to handle countless devices (literally lost count around three or four dozen lol) which gives me a unique perspective compared to the average ent.

D3DS is purely a labor of love - I’m constantly tinkering and working on something new (or multiple things). Right now I’m actually toying with the idea of making my own custom 3D printed stainless steel stems for the Vapcap with a few “twists” Inside and out haha. That and I probably have another dozen widgets currently at various stages of completion (from concept sketches to nearly ready to publish)

Looking good! What model vapcap?

I’m sipping on a 2020-M gifted to me by George himself (the inventor of the Vapcap) - we know each other from back when founding our businesses nearly a decade ago

Howdy!

Lol for sure you could say I’ve made a living studying these devices and how to make life easier with them.

I have the airizer max BTW

Awesome portable, especially for flavor chasers like myself :-)

1, how do I know when my bowl is done for? Should I try to squeeze every bit of smoke out of it or can I be satisfied when there’s very low quantities of smoke per pull at high temps?

This is a topic that comes up often! Don’t be embarrassed to asked, especially on a new platform like this one. Few things to consider

• As mentioned previously, different temps release different medical benefits. Not all of us vaporize to max temp. Depending on time of day, I may prefer a low temp session, and stop vaping at a max temp of 385F. Other times in the evening I may want to max out at 425F or hotter. Don’t be afraid to temp step up to a certain point and then call it quits when you feel you’ve reached your desired “butter zone” for extraction.

• The color of your cooked herb is a representation of the chlorophyll content in the herb. The specific shade of brown will vary depending on device and temperature used. So taking a photo and posting it to the group asking “iS iT fUlLy CoOkEd” is useless. Instead the key thing to know is that 100% complete extraction (at one set temperature!) results in 100% uniform color across every flake of herb in the oven. Now of course you could obtain 100% extraction at 325F… and everything is the same shade of brown… then cook the herb again later at 400F and cook out everything between 325F and 400F (which may be a lot or a little depending on the strain you’re cooking)

• Not everyone obtains a 100% complete extraction - some people toss it when the flavor tapers over to burnt popcorn, or when the vapor production peters out. The choice is really up to you personally and your desired effects

What does ABV mean? I gather that its short for the used updecarbolized flower that vapes produce as a byproduct

Yep “ABV” stands for “already been vaped” or others call it “AVB” - already vaped bud - either term is acceptable for cooked/vaporized herb which hasn’t been burnt to ash.

How do I best clean the brown reclaim flouid that builds in the glass? I heard simmering the pieces in milk work good but I’m not a milk drinker. Can I throw the pieces in butter with my flower when I make cannabutter?

There are indeed many different ways to clean the “vape honey” out of the glass stems.

Some people indeed make a chocolate milk simmering in a pot of milk and then throw in chocolate chips. Others like myself wash the pieces in a high % ISO alcohol to clean them (and grinders with ISO and a fresh toothbrush) - then pour the green/brownish mixture into a clean glass pie plate (or deep glass plate) and then let evaporate in sunlight (or I put mine on a 5.1 surround sound system which evaporated faster thanks to the added heat from the stereo system lol) - then use a fresh clean razor blade to scrape up the “film” left behind on the pie plate - this stuff can be dabbed or added to your dry herb to “turbocharge” a vaping session. Be sure to let it fully dry out before scraping up however! Otherwise the taste isn’t the best lol.

I suppose you could absolutely use butter for the same purpose - the vape honey will melt with the heat and bind to the fats in the butter. Just keep things at a low temp to avoid burning the butter, and to avoid overheating the honey (the lower the temps you use, the less you burn off and the more “full spectrum” your honey effects remain.

Do you think its worth buying the longest stem for the airizer max? The stem it comes with is okay but I saw the solo 2 stem is longer and comptable.

The Arizer Air Max uses the same size stems as the Air1, Air2, Solo1, and Solo2 (NOT the ArGo) - this means there is over a decade’s worth of stems and aftermarket stems on the market compatible with your device. I even have a cheap chinese “bubbler straw” stem which is a 10-inch long mini vertical inline bubbler stem for my Air1/Air2 (and no doubt Air Max, but I don’t have a max in my personal collection yet)

Absolutely different stems will alter your experience - don’t forget to consider a waterpipe adapter stem. EdsTNT used to make wood stems (with steel metal ovens) which would be yet another vaping experience. One day in the future I may consider making my own stems for the Arizer portables (using my industrial stainless steel metal 3D printers)

I saw you make custom accessories on your site, anything for airizer specific? Can I order stuff for my vape? I would really like a base to hold it firmly up and a skin if possible.

I’ve made some stem cases and funnels in the past for the Arizer stems which are available on my website ( Delta3DStudios.com ) - I’ve tried to organize every category by device and what I confirm is compatible. But I’ve tried to focus more on generic accessories like scoops and debowlers (both mason jar desktop options, and portable air-tight containers), universal waterpipe adapters, etc to work with a wider variety of devices. That said, I do have an Arizer Air1 in my desk (and an Air2 floating around somewhere) I could totally try and make some custom accessories for the Air Max - especially if you have a ruler or calipers to help measure key dimensions to confirm they match my existing devices which I could use for test-fitting.

Right now is actually my slower season so I have time to work on side projects. Shoot me a private message and we can always talk about custom widgets if you don’t see something specific on the website.

Lol, happy to drop some knowledge for novice users by all means don’t hesitate to reach out - I’m a fountain of knowledge and love to share what I do know or have experienced thanks to my position in the industry :-)

I’m currently working on a humidity pack insert for Mason Jars and other air-tight containers. Besides regular-mouth mason jars, what other size containers would most interest people? Are wide-mouth mason jars a popular option?